Central Europe Road Trip 3/6: Szentendre & Füzér Castle – Danube Artists' Town and a Hilltop Castle

The bank of the Danube outside Szentendre, with wide water and cool shade. (Photo: TIME TRAVELER editor)

In the previous two posts we covered Vienna and Budapest (Central Europe Road Trip 2/6: Budapest in One Day). From this post on, the trip becomes a real small-town road trip.

Itinerary overview (May 28–29)

Day 1 | Szentendre: an artists' town on the Danube

Cobbled streets and old houses

Cobbled streets in Szentendre, lined with old houses with big sloping roofs. (Photo: TIME TRAVELER editor)

Szentendre lies on the Danube just north of Budapest, less than an hour's drive away. At the end of the 17th century, large numbers of Serbs settled here to escape the Ottoman Empire, leaving several Orthodox churches and Balkan-style streetscapes. In the 20th century many artists moved in, and the town is so full of museums and galleries that it is often called the "artists' town".

A blue bench in front of a small white house with red window frames, a popular photo corner in town. (Photo: TIME TRAVELER editor)

We arrived around 11 a.m. On a weekday there were not many visitors on the cobbled streets, so we could take our time looking for photo angles.

Colourful Umbrella Street

A lane with colourful umbrellas hanging overhead and souvenir shops on both sides. (Photo: TIME TRAVELER editor)

In one lane of the town, colourful umbrellas are strung across the sky, and when the sun shines through them the ground fills with coloured shadows. Small shops on both sides sell handicrafts, bags and hats, a good place to pick up souvenirs.

The main square and churches

The memorial cross on Szentendre's main square (Fő tér), surrounded by colourful old houses. (Photo: TIME TRAVELER editor)

Looking from the main square down a lane, with a church bell tower at the end. (Photo: TIME TRAVELER editor)

On the main square in the middle of town stands a memorial cross put up in the 18th century by Serbian merchants, and the houses around the square are painted yellow, pink and white. Walking into the surrounding lanes, you keep seeing the bell towers of different churches. The town is small enough to see everything on foot.

A yellow church in town, with a green, leafy path in front. (Photo: TIME TRAVELER editor)

Day 2 | Füzér Castle: a medieval castle on a hilltop

Driving to the northeast corner of Hungary

On May 29 we drove northeast from the Budapest area to Füzér Castle (Füzéri vár) near the Slovak border. Most of the way is motorway, and after the exit it turns into rolling country roads through fields and small villages – a real pleasure for a road trip.

The stone gate of Füzér Castle; you first have to walk up a cobbled ramp. (Photo: TIME TRAVELER editor)

Füzér Castle is built on top of a volcanic-rock hill in the Zemplén Mountains (Zempléni-hegység). It is first recorded in the 13th century and is one of Hungary's oldest castles. After the 17th century it gradually fell into ruin, but after years of restoration it reopened in 2016, and you can now visit the restored palace and chapel.

A blue shield-shaped coat of arms on the castle wall, showing a figure and a golden crown. (Photo: TIME TRAVELER editor)

Wide views from the hilltop

Looking down from Füzér Castle: the village at the foot of the hill, fields and distant mountains all in view. (Photo: TIME TRAVELER editor)

The view is the castle's greatest charm. Standing by the wall and looking down, you see Füzér village at the foot of the hill, with patchwork fields stretching to the mountains in the distance. That day the clouds were rolling and sunlight swept over the fields in waves, with beautiful changes of light.

A green glazed-tile stove displayed inside the castle. (Photo: TIME TRAVELER editor)

The exhibition rooms inside recreate the living spaces of the nobility, and this green tiled stove left an impression on us. After visiting the castle we kept driving north, crossed the border into Slovakia and reached Košice in the evening.

Practical tips from our drive

• Parking in Szentendre: the old streets are a pedestrian zone, and there are paid car parks on the riverbank and around the edge of town. It is easiest to park first and then walk in.
• Come early: Umbrella Street and the main square get busier after noon, so arrive in the morning if you want good photos.
• Füzér Castle: the castle is on the hilltop, and from the car park to the gate it is still an uphill walk, so wear comfortable shoes. It is windy up there, so bring a jacket.
• Leaving Hungary: Hungary and Slovakia are both Schengen countries, and land borders usually have no fixed checkpoints, but buy the e-známka electronic toll before you enter Slovak motorways.
• Hotels: Find Budapest hotels on Trip.com (a convenient base for Szentendre)

Previous post: Central Europe Road Trip (2/6) | Budapest in One Day: Széchenyi Baths, Heroes' Square, Vajdahunyad Castle, New York Café and Gellért Hill Sunset Next post: Central Europe Road Trip (4/6) | Košice, Slovakia: St. Elisabeth Cathedral, the Singing Fountain and Jakab's Palace

--- Image credit: all photos in this article were taken by the TIME TRAVELER editor; faces of people are covered with the editor's original character stickers.

Travel info and affiliate disclosure: the Trip.com hotel link in this article is an affiliate link. If you browse or book through it, this site may earn a commission under the platform's rules, at no extra cost to you. Opening hours, tickets and transport information can change, so please check the latest official information.