Central Europe Road Trip 6/6: Bratislava & Tihany – Blue Church, Michael's Gate, Lake Balaton Finale

Looking down on the Danube from Bratislava Castle Hill, with a large bridge spanning the river in the distance. (Photo: TIME TRAVELER editor)

In the last post we covered the High Tatras, Spiš Castle and Levoča (Central Europe Road Trip 5/6: High Tatras, Spiš Castle & Levoča). For the last two days we drove southwest, first to the Slovak capital and then back into Hungary to Lake Balaton.

Itinerary overview (June 3–4)

Day 1 | Bratislava: a small and elegant capital

Bratislava lies on the Danube right next to the Austrian and Hungarian borders, and is one of very few capitals in the world bordering two countries. From 1536 to 1783 it (then called Pressburg) was the capital and coronation city of the Kingdom of Hungary. The old town is not large, but it has kept many Baroque palaces and churches.

The Presidential Palace

Grassalkovich Palace (Grasalkovičov palác), now the Presidential Palace of Slovakia, with the national flag and the EU flag in front. (Photo: TIME TRAVELER editor)

On the afternoon of June 3 we first went to Grassalkovich Palace. This 18th-century Rococo palace was originally the residence of Count Grassalkovich, and it has been the residence of the Slovak president since 1996. Its white walls look very elegant against the blue sky.

Bratislava Castle

The white Baroque stone gate at the entrance to the castle area, with statues decorating the top of the gate posts. (Photo: TIME TRAVELER editor)

Next we climbed Castle Hill. Bratislava Castle is a white, square building with a tower at each corner and is the city's most striking landmark. It was destroyed by fire in 1811 and lay in ruins for more than a hundred years before being rebuilt in the mid-20th century. From the viewpoint on Castle Hill you can see the Danube and the new town on the opposite bank, which is the angle of the cover photo.

Old town lanes and Michael's Gate

A narrow lane in the old town, with room for only one person between the yellow walls. (Photo: TIME TRAVELER editor)

The green-spired bell tower of Michael's Gate (Michalská brána), the only medieval city gate preserved in the old town. (Photo: TIME TRAVELER editor)

Walking down from Castle Hill into the old town, the cobbled lanes wind between old houses in pastel colours. Michael's Gate is the only surviving gate in Bratislava's medieval walls, and a statue of the Archangel Michael stands on the green onion dome of the tower. Passing under the gate brings you to busy Michalská street.

The statue of the man raising his hat

The statue of "Schöne Náci" raising his top hat, and we greeted him back. (Photo: TIME TRAVELER editor)

Several humorous bronze statues are scattered around Bratislava's old town, and this gentleman raising his top hat is modelled on a real 20th-century figure, "Schöne Náci". He is said to have always strolled through the old town in a tailcoat and top hat, tipping his hat to ladies he passed, and he is remembered fondly by locals.

The Blue Church

The Church of St. Elisabeth, known as the Blue Church (Modrý kostolík), pale blue from its walls to its roof. (Photo: TIME TRAVELER editor)

The last stop was the Blue Church on the east side of the old town. This Art Nouveau church was designed by the Hungarian architect Ödön Lechner, completed in 1913 and dedicated to St. Elisabeth of Hungary. With its rounded lines, blue glazed tiles and white decoration, it looks like a big cake and is very cute.

Dinner in Bratislava: rice with stewed meat sauce and fries. (Photo: TIME TRAVELER editor)

In the evening we had a very generous dinner in the city – rice with stewed meat sauce and fries – ending our last night in Slovakia.

Day 2 | Tihany: a finale by Lake Balaton

The stone steps in Tihany, with the twin towers of the Benedictine abbey church at the end. (Photo: TIME TRAVELER editor)

On June 4 we drove from Slovakia back into Hungary, to the Tihany Peninsula on the north shore of Lake Balaton. Lake Balaton is the largest lake in Central Europe and is nicknamed the "Hungarian sea" by locals. The Benedictine abbey on the peninsula was founded in 1055 by King Andrew I, and its founding charter contains some old Hungarian words and phrases, regarded as one of the oldest surviving written records of the Hungarian language. The twin-towered Baroque church you see now is the form rebuilt in the 18th century.

On the viewing terrace next to the abbey, the blue-green water of Lake Balaton stretches to the horizon. (Photo: TIME TRAVELER editor)

By the lake in the evening, sitting on the stone embankment and staring at Lake Balaton. (Photo: TIME TRAVELER editor)

From the viewing terrace beside the abbey, the water of Lake Balaton is a beautiful blue-green. In the evening we walked down to the lake and sat on the stone embankment in the breeze, looking at the calm water, and the twelve days of the road trip seemed to have gone by in a flash.

Dinner by the lake on the last night of the trip. (Photo: TIME TRAVELER editor)

Series recap: the full 12-day Central Europe road trip route

This Central Europe road trip started in Vienna and passed through Budapest, Szentendre, Füzér Castle, Košice, the High Tatras, Spiš Castle, Levoča and Bratislava, finishing by Lake Balaton. Three countries, six travel posts – if you want to read from the beginning, start with the first one:

1. Central Europe Road Trip (1/6) | Vienna + Budapest
2. Central Europe Road Trip (2/6) | Budapest in One Day
3. Central Europe Road Trip (3/6) | Szentendre + Füzér Castle
4. Central Europe Road Trip (4/6) | Košice, Slovakia
5. Central Europe Road Trip (5/6) | High Tatras + Spiš Castle + Levoča

Practical tips

• Parking in Bratislava: the old town is a pedestrian zone, so park on Castle Hill or in a car park on the edge of the old town and walk in.
• Lake Balaton: summer is the holiday high season for locals, and on weekends the lakeside towns are busy with cars and people, so try to go on a weekday.
• Tihany Abbey: you need a ticket to enter the church, and opening hours change with the season.
• Hungarian motorways: after returning to Hungary, your e-matrica electronic toll has to cover your driving dates. Hungary also has county vignettes valid in a single county, so the choice depends on your route.
• Hotels: Find Bratislava hotels on Trip.com · Find Tihany hotels on Trip.com

Previous post: Central Europe Road Trip (5/6) | High Tatras + Spiš Castle + Levoča: a Cable Car up Lomnický Štít, a World Heritage Castle and a Renaissance Town

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